Dory Kowal, CPDT

How do I HOUSE TRAIN my pup?

HOUSEBREAKING 101  

If your dog seems to be having a more accidents than usual, be sure to get him or her to the vet ASAP. Some house training problems are actually medical problems in disguise and no amount of training will help until the medical issue is taken care of.

If your vet can find nothing medically that would be causing your dog to have an accident, then you need to look at where you are making mistakes.  Contrary to popular belief, dogs don’t go to the bathroom in the house to get even with us.  They may be ill, nervous, seeking attention, scared, confused, having anxiety or any number of other things, but they aren’t acting out of spite.  As gross as we find it dogs love pee and poop. It’s their calling card to other dogs and it marks their territory.  Why would they leave us something so valuable if they were angry with us?

The first rule of thumb in house training is to never let the dog out of your sight.  You want to catch them just before or during the act.  Either keep the dog closed in the room with you by using a door or baby gate or tether the dog to you with a leash attached to a belt or belt loop.  This way the dog can’t wander off and leave a mess for you to find later.  If you can’t pay full attention to the dog when he is with you then put the dog in his crate.  It’s better for the dog to be in the crate a little more at this point than to let him learn bad habits.  You wouldn’t let a toddler roam around the house unsupervised.  It’s the same with a dog, especially one that isn’t house trained yet.

Start by taking the dog out every hour on the hour, after the dog wakes up, eats, drinks or plays, unless the dog is crated.  This seems like quite a bit, but soon you will be able to figure out a schedule for your dog.  This is easier if you are closely monitoring water intake and feeding the dog on a set schedule.  Increase the time in-between gradually.  Soon you should be able to take the dog out every 2 hours, then 3 hours and so on.

If you take your dog out at a time when you’re fairly sure he has to go and nothing happens after 5 minutes, take the dog back inside, crate him, and try again in 30-60 minutes.  Keep doing this until the dog finally goes. Be sure that you are not playing with the dog; you are merely an observation tower on the scene to make sure things get done.  Remain in one spot so the dog can only circle you.  If you keep walking, your pup will find too many interesting things to smell and potty time will take longer.

Watch your dog while he’s going to the bathroom (that will only seem weird for a little while, I promise!).  When he’s just about finished, start praising in a fairly mild tone.  You don’t want to praise so much that he stops before business is complete!  However, you do want him to know that it’s the actual act of eliminating that makes you happy.  Feel free to bring a clicker out with you if you clicker train your dog and even if you don’t, treats are always an appropriate gift for a dog at a time like this.

You can also throw a command word in as your dog starts going to the bathroom so the dog makes the connection between hearing the word, doing the action and you being very happy.  Dogs can be commanded to “go poo” or “go pee”.  You can say anything you’d like: go potty, do it, hurry up, get your business done, do your thing, etc.  This can be very helpful not just for getting a dog house trained, but also if your dog is nervous about going to the bathroom in a new place like a rest area.

With any luck, your dog will start to signal when he needs to go out.  The first time he does this, have a praise party after the dog has gone to the bathroom.  Have treats, sing, dance, pet your dog in his favorite spots – do whatever you have to do to let this dog know how happy you are.  This greatly increases the chances of it happening again.  However, not all dogs give a clear signal so you will need to keep an eye on your dog and on the clock once you’ve figured out a pattern.  A clear signal would be your dog sitting or pawing at the door.  A subtle signal would be the tail is held at a different angle or the dog drops his nose to the ground for a second.  Hanging a bell on the door for the dog to ring is another option.  I personally don’t recommend it as dogs quickly learn that if they ring the bell, the door opens and they usually start ringing it just to go outside and play.

When you catch your dog in the act of eliminating somewhere he shouldn’t be, you can give a brief shout to try to stop the dog but don’t show anger.  Anger will only teach the dog not to go to the bathroom in front of you, whether it’s in the house or in the yard at 2:00am.  Get the dog to the correct spot as soon as possible.  If the dog does something in the right spot, praise him like crazy and give him some wonderful treats.  If the dog doesn’t go to the bathroom when outside, put him in his crate while you clean up.  Rubbing his face in the mess doesn’t really teach the dog anything, other than to make sure he’s never in the same place as a mess when you’re around.  Keeping the dog from seeing you clean up can help eliminate “maid syndrome” in your dog, where he figures it doesn’t matter what he does where, you’ll always make sure that his home is clean.

It is very important to use an enzymatic cleaner when cleaning up the mess.  The cleaner will “eat” the particles of odor, which not only makes living in the house more pleasant for you, but also removes the dog’s odor which marks that spot as his.

If you are doing all of these things and still having house training issues, there are some other things that you can try.  Some slightly off the wall ideas, especially if your dog is leaving messes in the same area all the time, include feeding your dog in the area or spending quality time with the dog in that area.  Dogs naturally like to keep their den area clean.  By feeding the dog and/or spending more time with the dog in an area where he is going to the bathroom, you are making that area more den-like to him and may encourage him to stop leaving messes there.  This is also why crate training is so effective for most dogs.

 

General Rules of Thumb:

A puppy’s age in months plus one, determines the hours he can “hold it” while he’s crated. A two month old puppy can hold it for 3 hours. A four month old puppy can hold it for 5 hours. When the pup gets older – be realistic. How long can YOU hold it? This guideline doesn’t apply when the puppy has just eaten a meal or lapped up a lot of water. This is AFTER the puppy has eliminated what has gone into his system.

A new, mature dog coming into your home must be housebroken in the same fashion as a puppy!  He has to learn where the door leading to outside is and you have to learn to read his signals.

Always housebreak your puppy/dog ONE ROOM AT A TIME.  He has to earn the right to get more freedom in the house.  The more times that he’s set up to fail – the harder the habit will be to break.  Go slow!  Make sure that the housebreaking is reliable in one room before moving on to the next.

When your dog eliminates outside in the designated area – that not only earns him a reward or praise, he may also get free playtime or a nice walk for 20 minutes.  Remember – when a puppy plays – he usually has to pee/poop soon afterwards.  If he’s crated – then the time is extended.

Try to get your puppy going in one spot in the beginning as described in the beginning of this article.  Training your pup to go on command is not a long walk – it’s a training session.  When he eliminates – then if you decide to take him for a long walk – the walk is his reward.  We don’t want pups to learn that potty time means fun, long walks everytime you put the leash on them and when they eliminate – you turn around and bring them back home.  It won’t take long for the pup to figure out that when he “goes”, the walk is over.  Some pups are known to hold it so they get a long walk out of the deal.

Don’t fall for the myth/excuse that small dogs are harder to housebreak than larger dogs.  Some people believe that small dogs have small bladders – therefore, they can’t hold it as long.  The truth is that every dog’s bladder is proportioned to the size of the dog.  Reasons for having a hard time housebreaking a toy breed may be that the owner isn’t sticking to a strict schedule because cleaning up a little piddle with a tissue is not a big deal.  Owners of a St. Bernard puppy may have more determination and are more likely to stick to a strict schedule because of the size of the mess!

Remember – if your puppy has an accident in the house – it usually means that you weren’t on the ball with the training.  Take a newspaper, roll it up and hit yourself over the head each time you give the puppy an opportunity to make a mistake!

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How do I CRATE TRAIN my pup?

Crate Training Your Dog

Crate training your dog may take some time and effort, but can be useful in a variety of situations. If you have a new dog or puppy, you can use the crate to limit his access to the house until he learns all the house rules – like what he can and can’t chew on and where he can and can’t eliminate. A crate is also a safe way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as a way of taking him places where he may not be welcome to run freely. If you properly train your dog to use the crate, he’ll think of it as his safe place and will be happy to spend time there when needed.

Selecting A Crate

Crates may be plastic (often called "flight kennels") or collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores. Your dog’s crate should be just large enough for him to stand up and turn around in. Too much room will afford your dog the luxury of eliminating on one side and sleeping on the other. Dog's don't want to soil where they sleep so keep it sized appropriately. If you purchased a crate that is too big, you can buy a "crate divider" for just this purpose.

The Crate Training Process Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog’s age, temperament and past experiences. It’s important to keep two things in mind while crate training. The crate should always be associated with something pleasant, and training should take place in a series of small steps - don’t go too fast.

Step 1: Introducing Your Dog To The Crate

• Put the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. If you’re using an open crate – you may want to drape a blanket over the back half of the crate to create a more den-like feeling. Bring your dog over to the crate and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is securely fastened opened so it won’t hit your dog and frighten him.

• To encourage your dog to enter the crate, drop some small food treats near it, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that’s okay – don’t force him to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.

Step 2: Feeding Your Dog His Meals In The Crate

• After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, put the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If your dog is still reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate.

• Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he’s eating. At first, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he’s staying in the crate for ten minutes or so after eating. If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, it’s imperative that you not let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he’ll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he’ll keep doing it.

Step 3: Conditioning Your Dog To The Crate For Longer Time Periods

• After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you’re home. Call him over to the crate and give him a treat. Give him a command to enter such as, "kennel up." Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, then let him out of the crate. Repeat this process several times a day. With each repetition, gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you’re out of his sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the majority of the time, you can begin leaving him crated when you’re gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks.

Step 4: Part A/Crating Your Dog When Left Alone

After your dog is spending about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate. You’ll want to vary at what point in your "getting ready to leave" routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn’t be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don’t make your departures emotional and prolonged, but matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don’t reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you’re home so he doesn’t associate crating with being left alone.

Part B/Crating Your Dog At Night

Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you’ll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside. Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that crating doesn’t become associated with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer.

Potential Problems

• Too Much Time In The Crate A crate isn’t a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated. For example, if your dog is crated all day while you’re at work and then crated again all night, he’s spending too much time in too small a space. Other arrangements should be made to accommodate his physical and emotional needs. Also remember that puppies under six months of age shouldn’t stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can’t control their bladders and bowels for longer periods.

• Whining If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he’s whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you followed the training procedures outlined above, your dog hasn’t been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. Try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he’ll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you’ve ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you’re convinced that your dog doesn’t need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don’t give in, otherwise you’ll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you’ve progressed gradually through the training steps and haven’t done too much too fast, you’ll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

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How do I stop the Nipping & Jumping?

It's not always easy to convince a new puppy not to bite the hand that feeds him . . . pets him . . . or plays with him, for that matter. When puppies play with each other, they use their mouths, so they may also be inclined to bite or "mouth" your hand during play or when being petted. This is rarely aggressive behavior meant to do harm, but it is a difficult habit to break unless you encourage your puppy to try an acceptable alternative behavior. The goal is to redirect your puppy's energy onto acceptable chew toys, and to teach him to be gentle when a hand is in or near his mouth.

Encourage Acceptable Behavior

Redirect your puppy's penchant for nipping and biting by offering him more acceptable objects (such as chew toys) whenever you’re about to pet him.  Do not offer him a toy AFTER he starts mouthing – this will reinforce the unwanted behavior – as he’ll think he gets a toy every time he mouths your hand!   This technique can be especially effective when children want to pet him. As you or the child reaches out to scratch him behind the ears with one hand, offer the chew toy with the other. This will not only help your puppy learn that people and petting are wonderful, but will also keep his mouth busy while he's being petted. Alternate which hand does the petting and which one has the chew toy. You may need to start off by petting or scratching your puppy for short periods of time, since the longer he's petted, the more likely he is to get excited and start to nip.

Discourage Unacceptable Behavior

You must also teach your puppy to be gentle with hands, and show him that nipping results in unpleasant consequences. Teach your puppy that nipping "turns off" any attention and social interaction with you. As soon as a nip occurs, yell "OUCH" as though you've been mortally wounded. Then fold your arms, turn away and ignore him. Leave the room if you must, but ignore him until he's calm, and then try the chew toy and petting method again.

Jumping Up

When your puppy jumps up on you, he wants attention. Even if you push him away, he is still getting attention (even if it is a response that you might consider negative).

When your puppy jumps up:

When your puppy realizes that he gets no attention from you while he's jumping up, but does get attention when he sits, he'll stop jumping up. Remember, once you've taught him to come and sit quietly for attention, you must reward him for that “good” behavior. Be careful not to ignore him when he comes and sits politely, waiting for your attention.

What Not to Do

Attempts to tap, slap, or hit your puppy in the face, grabbing & holding your puppy’s muzzle tightly for nipping or jumping up are almost guaranteed to backfire. Several things may happen, depending on your puppy's temperament and the severity of the correction:

Never play wrestling games with your puppy if you're having a nipping or dominance problem. These types of games encourage out-of-control behavior, grabbing, lunging, and competition with you, behaviors you don't want him to learn.

Be Consistent

It's important that all behaviors, acceptable and unacceptable, be managed consistently by all family members. And remember that any method you try will probably not be effective unless you work hard to teach your puppy an acceptable alternative behavior.

A Note About Children and Puppies

It's very difficult for children under eight or nine years old to practice the kind of behavior modification outlined here. Children's first reaction to being nipped or mouthed by a puppy is to push the puppy away with their hands and arms. This will be interpreted by the puppy as play and will probably cause the puppy to nip and mouth even more. Adults should closely monitor all interactions between their children and dogs.                      

 

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Children & Dogs - BITE PREVENTION

TWO THINGS TO TEACH YOUR CHILD

 

Dog's Do Not Like Hugs and Kisses - we cannot stress this strongly enough. Say it over to yourself 1000 times. It doesn't matter if your dog is a Newfoundland or a Yorkie. Don't think that your dog is an exception to this - because you are wrong and you are setting your child and your dog up for potential tragedy. Teach your kids not to hug or kiss the dog on the face. Hugging the family dog or face-to-face contact are common causes of bites to the face. Teach your kids to scratch the dog on the chest or on the side of the neck - most dogs do enjoy this. If your child is a toddler or does not follow instructions, then do not allow access to the dog unless you have your hands on the dog.

Be a Tree if a Strange Dog Approaches - teach kids to be a tree.  Trees are boring and the dog will eventually go away. This works for strange dogs and even your own dog if he is getting too frisky or becomes aggressive.

 

WHY DO DOGS BITE AND HOW DO THEY WARN US?

There are several possible reasons why a dog may bite a child:

There are usually warning signs before a bite occurs, but these can be very subtle and may be missed by many people. A dog may appear to tolerate being repeatedly mauled by a child and one day bites, surprising everyone. Signs that you should take very seriously that indicate that the dog is saying "I have been very patient with this child, but I am nearing the end of my patience", include:

You may think that your dog loves to have the children climbing all over him and hugging him, but if you see any of these signs, then you are being warned that a bite could occur if the dog feels he has no other way of defending himself. Do your dog and your child a favor and intervene if you notice any of these signs.

What can parents do?

What can dog owners do?

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How do I stop the barking?

Barking problems are among the most common complaints that dog owners have. Why do dogs bark? Well, for a variety of reasons. Dogs will bark if they feel threatened. They may bark when they play and get excited. Some dogs will bark for attention. Some will bark if they are in pain and they’ll even bark when they’re lonely, bored or stressed. Certain breeds or breed types are also genetically inclined to bark more than others.

How you’ll prevent or resolve your issue with barking will partially depend on what is triggering your dog to bark. For example if your dog is barking or vocalizing because he’s in pain, treating the source of his pain would be the obvious solution. If your dog is barking through the front window as dogs pass by your house, blocking off his access to that window is a simple way to help prevent his barking.

Keep in mind that the more your dog practices barking the better he’ll get at it. So identifying what is triggering your dog to bark and if all possible, removing the trigger or trying to stop the barking before it occurs is the simplest way to prevent the barking.

Anti-bark collars are inappropriate for most kinds of barking problems (and often make the problem worse!). With the right kind of help and a strong desire to stop the problem, most pet parents can successfully resolve barking issues in a safe and humane way.

The Alert Barker

If your dog is barking to alert you to someone or something outside, the answer is quite simple. Remove the source of what triggers his barking. For instance if your dog barks at people as they walk past your home, prevent his access to the window using furniture, closing blinds, blocking off the area with a baby gate or confining him to a room or his crate while you aren’t at home.

The Lonely Barker

Fortunately the remedy for the lonely barker is often simple. Try changing your dog’s environment a bit. Remember that your dog probably wants to be with people. Dogs who are left outside for long periods of time are often the worst offenders of barking. Your dog needs to play with you and feel like he is a part of the family. Dogs typically don’t do well when left alone for long periods of time. Make sure you set aside time for regular walks, playtime – even some training sessions. You’ll want to be sure that you give him the social contact that he needs to keep his body and mind occupied.

Barking when left alone may also indicate separation anxiety. If you think that anxiety is the source of your dog’s barking, contact a professional dog trainer in your area who specializes in working with anxiety. You may also want to work with your veterinarian to see if medication is necessary to help improve your dog’s behavior.

Attention Barking

Attention seeking barking is a learned behavior! When your dog brings a toy over to you, drops it on the floor, barks and you pick it up and throw it. You have just taught your dog, “When I bark you play!” Even if you look at him or verbally scold your dog when he barks, you will still be teaching him that his barking is a successful way to get your attention. How can you remedy it? You need to ignore his demands. His barking may initially increase and so don’t give in or he will learn that persistence pays off. However, if he barks and you really ignore him or even better if you ignore him and walk away until he is quiet, he will eventually learn that barking doesn’t work and it will decrease.

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How Important is Puppy Socialization?

Puppy Development

Puppies are pretty helpless for the first 12 days of their life during the neonatal period. Their eyes and ears are not yet open and their motor capabilities are limited. The majority of their time is spent nursing and sleeping, and behavior is mostly reflexive. If puppies are handled and exposed to mild environmental stressors during this period, it can have a positive impact on them in later years. Pups left undisturbed can be emotionally reactive when they reach adulthood. Pups begin to develop their motor skills during the transitional period (12-21 days). They begin to walk unsteadily, can eat soft meals once their first teeth come in and emerge into the world with an amplified amount of social and environmental stimulation. From 21-84 days, a puppy’s socialization period begins. It is a sensitive period in the dog’s developmental stages. This is the optimal time for them to experience and learn without being fearful. Between three to five weeks pups go through the primary socialization stage where a great deal of learning occurs. Much of this learning establishes a foundation for behavior patterns (good and bad!) later in life. Insufficient socialization during this time can lead to hyperactivity, over-reactivity, emotional rigidity, anxiety and more. They may have problems with separation and exhibit fear or aggression toward strangers. When separated from the litter during this period, many pups are intolerant of other dogs later in life. The secondary socialization period (six to 12 weeks) is the “process of bonding and social conditioning within the context of the human domestic environment …” (Lindsay, 2000) As we’ve learned from the experts over the years, it is critical that puppies are provided with adequate social contact and as much exposure to as many things in the environment as possible during the socialization period. Having this knowledge can assist us in educating not only pet owners, but also other animal professionals, about the importance of developing good social contacts with pups. A pup will develop abnormally if the environment does not provide him/her with sufficient or adequate experience. Between the ages of three to 16 weeks, the average puppy will learn more than in his/her entire lifetime. What occurs during this critical period has an everlasting emotional and cognitive effect on the dog.

 

The Issue of Poor Socialization

Seeing puppies entering classes at 16 weeks with problems should be an odd occurance now with all of the information available but unfortunately it's not. For years, we’ve been observing pups that have experienced what can be perceived as poor socialization. The pups were probably deprived of early environmental exposures since they appeared to have unusual deficits and/or dysfunctional behaviors. If a puppy is isolated from the world early on, he/she will have difficulty enjoying companionships; he/she may exhibit distrust or even extreme fear of any social contact and appear to have behavioral disabilities. These dogs typically will exhibit poor learning and problem-solving abilities and are unable to cope since fear or avoidance overrides all. Research has shown us that with concentrated remedial socialization, some pups can regain some tranquility, yet they may never reach their full potential had things been handled correctly from the onset.

 

What Breeders Should Be Doing

Breeders are with puppies from birth giving them an opportunity to take advantage of early learning. By following some of the suggestions we’ve listed below, breeders can have an enormous impact on the future of the pups. • At about three weeks of age, expose the pups to other friendly, healthy dogs and by five weeks, people. • Take car trips, especially to the veterinarian’s office. The pup’s first experience with the veterinarian should not be a cold, motorized table and needle in the rump. Acclimate the pup to the motion of cars to avoid car sickness. • Gradually expose them to different sounds starting at low levels (doorbells, vacuums, hair dryers, vehicles, horns, barking dogs, kids playing, etc.) • Separate pups from their litter for short periods of time to help accustom them to being alone. What a shock to them after sleeping with seven siblings to then be put alone in a crate in a dark kitchen! • Acclimate the pups to various substrates. • Between five to eight weeks, familiarize the pup to grooming tools, ear cleaning, drinking and eating from a bowl, training with treats, wearing collars, leash walking, and much more. • Acclimate pups to crates and x-pens, leaving the pup with a "puppy pal" (soft toy to cuddle with) and proper chew toys. • Allow pups to investigate in the yard, teaching them to walk upand down a stair or two as opposed to carrying them in and out. • Take the pups out in the rain. How many pups have accidents during inclement weather? • Work on housetraining to help get the new owner off to the right start.

 

Socialization Pros and Cons

Many veterinarians and breeders are recommending early socialization and including this learning program as part of their total wellness plan for pet owners. Yet many are not.• Both research and findings from various guide dog organizations show that fewer than a half a dozen, out of hundreds of thousands of puppies, became ill before their final set of vaccinations. All other pups that were taken into public places became successful guide dogs. • Dr. R.K. Anderson states: “The risk of a dog dying because of infection with distemper or parvo disease is far less than the much higher risk of a dog dying (euthanasia) because of behavior problems. Are there risks? Yes. But over ten years of good experience and data, with few exceptions, offers veterinarians the opportunity to generally recommend early socialization and training classes, beginning when puppies are eight to nine weeks of age.” • Isolating these puppies until they are 16+ weeks is detrimental to their behavioral health. Puppy classes have turned into behavior modification classes as a result.

 

The Value of Early Socialization

Mother Nature designed dogs to be especially receptive to interactions with novel people, dogs, places and new experiences, while very young, so that they grow up to be comfortable with the everyday elements of their environment. This prevents them from wasting energy by responding fearfully to the common events and encounters of their day-to-day life. Puppies are programmed to be most accepting of new experiences until the age of about 12 weeks. Mother Nature decrees that anything the puppy hasn’t encountered by 12 weeks old is odd enough to warrant caution! The period from three to approximately 12 weeks old is called the “sensitive period,” whereby puppies are most able to easily acclimatize to novel stimuli. From 12 to 18 weeks old the window of opportunity to socialize the puppy closes rapidly, such that with each passing week it becomes increasingly difficult to successfully socialize a dog. Once the dog reaches 18 weeks of age the window of socialization closes and it is then much harder—and sometimes impossible—to train a dog to like something new or acclimatize him to something that he finds frightening. Poorly socialized dogs are at much greater risk for responding fearfully to unfamiliar people, dogs, and experiences.

 

Benefits of a Puppy Kindergarten Program

Puppy classes help puppies achieve wellness by facilitating socialization and by teaching the puppies’ guardians how to assist the puppies in acquiring skills that are expected of them in order for them to be cherished members of their human family and of society. Since puppy classes are so important to the lifelong well-being of puppies, it is crucial that as many puppies as possible attend them. Despite this, many owners are discouraged from enrolling their dog because of recommendations from breeders or veterinarians who argue that puppies should not be exposed to other dogs until their full vaccination schedule is complete, something that doesn’t occur until after the puppy is 12 weeks old, when his peak socialization period has already passed. There is a growing consensus that puppies are NOT getting ill in puppy classes that enroll puppies who are seven weeks and older and who have been vaccinated at least seven to ten days before starting class. However, this is not to suggest that young puppies should be exposed indiscriminately to other dogs and outdoor areas. It is still prudent to avoid exposing a puppy to dogs of unknown health status, or to parks and other areas likely contaminated with dog feces until the puppy is fully vaccinated. In regions where parvovirus is rampant, or where other infectious disease agents may be present, it may even be warranted to keep the puppy from walking on public property until fully vaccinated. Keep in mind that socialization to dogs is but one aspect of socialization, and that puppies can be safely exposed to people, places, sights, smells, and sounds without significant risk of exposure to infectious disease. Puppyhood remains the single greatest opportunity to positively influence a dog’s behavioral development. Since more dogs are euthanized for behavioral reasons than for all medical causes combined, it would be unwise to allow unfounded fear of exposure to infectious disease to interfere with efforts towards early socialization. Advising puppy owners to wait until the puppy is over 16 weeks of age before exposing him to the world he/she will be living in might have been appropriate a decade ago but is now clearly outdated. In striving towards puppy wellness, socialization and infectious disease prevention must go hand in hand.

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